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Dirk Govers

Where ham becomes world-famous Italy’s culinary pride

Italy and ham go hand in hand. Think of names like Parma and San Daniele: these are DOP products. Denominazione di Origine Protetta, or Protected Designation of Origin. Simply put: these hams must be produced under strict regulations. The pig must be born, raised, and slaughtered in Italy, and there are rules regarding feed, genetics, and age. These must be followed and are closely monitored by the Consorzio.

In addition to these DOP-registered products, Italy also produces many excellent and delicious dry-cured hams and salumi without this registration. For these products, the origin is not specified, and piglets or pigs may come from outside Italy. This allows for a combination of quality and availability at the right price.

Heavy pigs: the foundation of quality

For Italian dry-cured hams, heavy pigs weighing between 165 and 180 kilos are used, and for Parma ham production, there is even a minimum age requirement of 9 months. Why? Simply to have the right weight for the dry-cured hams and the proper fat coverage. Heavier hams have a thicker fat layer that gives the ham its distinctive flavor. Specific genetics play a key role here. Think of crossbreeds of Italian Large White, Italian Landrace, and Duroc. The latter is especially important: Duroc gives the meat an excellent balance between lean and fat. That intramuscular fat (the fine marbling effect) is very important here.

From genetics to flavor

The success of Italian ham starts right in the barns. The right genetics and feed determine how the meat behaves during curing. A pig that is too lean dries out too quickly, while a pig that is too fat does not provide a fine texture. It’s this delicate balance that producers seek. Many therefore choose crossbreeds with Duroc: these usually provide exactly the balance between lean and fat needed to create the right taste and experience.

The network behind it

In Italy, you see two lines: the DOP hams (where origin from Italy is guaranteed and the production process is controlled), and production outside DOP where the origin is not specifically defined. Where pigs or products do not have to meet DOP registration, VAEX supplies its Italian customers with Duroc piglets (mainly from Denmark) and heavy slaughter pigs, when there is extra demand. The advantage for the Italian pig farmer in importing piglets is that technical farm results are on average better than with animals of Italian origin. The benefit of keeping pigs of Italian origin and producing under DOP registration is that the yield from the pigs is higher, thanks to the protection of this market and product. Whether it’s the famous Parma ham or a small regional specialty: the secret lies in the combination of tradition, heavy pigs, and partners who understand what quality requires. VAEX plays a role in this, ever since 1976, and has only grown stronger over the years.

Did you know...

✔ VAEX has established its own Italian BV to be closer to customers and better respond to the market.

✔ Breeding gilts are also sold to Italian farmers, allowing them to improve their own herds.

✔ In addition to the regular piglet trade, VAEX also regularly deals in heavy pigs – the animals needed for Italian hams and other regional products.

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